Loaves and Fishes - Fish Recipes
I am certain in the ‘good ol' days' before freezers and fridges that foods were harvested or hunter gathered in amounts that were ample to feed a family or community with little or no waste
Our indigenous friends would catch a decent feed, taking only enough fish
for that and the following day's sustenance, ensuring there would always be a supply of fresh fish to eat.
A rapid increase in population over the past millennia has seen the need for and development of large scale commercial and recreational fisheries, thus putting a massive demand on these wonderful natural resources.
Pollution of our oceans and dwindling fish stocks on a global scale have highlighted the need for carefully managed fisheries.
Growing public awareness and concern about the future of our fish resources has seen the emergence of the buzz word ‘sustainability'.
A social consciousness is evolving around sustainability and the need for good agricultural and aquatic practices if the planet (as we know it) is to survive.
You and I, the recreational or commercial fisher, chef, cook and consumer of ocean product CAN make a big difference in helping to maintain and sustain our rich and valuable resources.
Let me explain how.
For so long we have enjoyed the now realised unsustainable luxury of being able to take large amounts of fish and seafood from our oceans and rivers that ‘slabs' of fillets would be lifted off the whole fish, with 2/3rds of the fish then dumped into a bin; choice wings, flaps, head and backbone thrown away.
With so much fish in the freezer, some would become freezer burnt and be tossed out after a month or so.
With the price of seafood and fish increasing, creative chefs are driving their dollar further by the ‘value-adding' to the whole fish - nary a wing is wasted, or a backbone binned, or trimmings tossed
When I am conducting cooking demonstrations, or educational master classes on how to extend the value of fish, it's a great feeling to see and feel the awareness growing amongst the public.
When they see for themselves how easy it is to value-add to a fish, and by using almost all of the fish how economical it becomes, then for me our fisheries resources become a touch more sustainable and everyone wins!
(Obviously we are looking at a certain species and weight of fish. However I might try, I cannot master the art of barbecueing a herring or whiting wing, but a 2 or 3 kg snapper, groper or nanagai would be simply superb!)
Here are some simple recipes showing how you can do this. They have been developed in conjunction with a young West Australian chef from Albany, James Gunson (who worked with me in Sydney at the Olympics).
Fish Stock
(20 minutes)
The making of a fish stock to use as base for fish curries, soup or laksa is so simple. One of the most popular dishes at my first restaurant in Augusta was a creamy dhufish head and backbone soup, flavoured with a good white wine and some pernod. I used to thicken the soup with all the little pieces picked from the backbone, cheeks and wings.
Ingredients
fish bones and trimmings
couple of sliced onions
handful of parsley and stalks
squeeze of lemon juice
a half dozen crushed black peppercorns
2 litres of cold water
Method
Put the ingredients into a pot and cover with water
Bring to boil and quickly allow to simmer gently for 20 minutes (any longer and the stock can go bitter). Strain the liquid.
This stock can be thickened to make a delicious base for a fish mornay, using the trimmings and the meat that falls or is picked off the backbone
Fish Balls
(25 minutes)
Ingredients
200g fish trimmings
cup of coriander leaves
2 cloves of garlic
few basil leaves
tspn chilli paste
few drops fish sauce
½ cup coconut milk
tspn fresh ginger
few drops soy sauce
few drops rice wine
¼ bunch spring onions, finely chopped
Method
Puree fish trimmings in a food processor, add other ingredients and blend to a smooth paste.
Dip a tablespoon into hot water and scoop out a fish ball.
Shallow fry or deep fry in hot oil until golden, drain on paper and serve.
These fish balls are delicious when dropped into a fish stock with the addition of noodles.
Simple Stir-fry
(20 minutes)
Ingredients
1 Tbs oil
200g fish trimmings
2 cloves garlic chopped
1 tsp fresh ginger
1 tsp fresh lemongrass
handful coriander
1 tsp fresh chilli
few drops fish sauce
few drops soy sauce
1 tsp honey
salt and pepper
squeeze lemon juice
cooked noodles or rice
Method
In a pan heat oil then add garlic and ginger. Saute without colour for 30 seconds then add fish trimmings, lemongrass, chilli. Saute for 1 minute, gently turning or tossing the fish. Add rest of ingredients and then the rice or noodles.
Season then serve with coriander on top
Coconut Fish Curry
(30 minutes)
Curries are a great way to get more mileage from your fish fillets and trimmings
Because the ingredients can be extended to include potato, broccoli, Asian greens and beans it means a little fish can go a long way.
Ingredients
4 stalks lemongrass
8 spring onions
6 cloves garlic
750g fish chunks (around 50g each)
4 small red chillies chopped
3 cups coconut milk
4 kaffir lime leaves
dash fish sauce
Method
Finely cut centre pieces of lemongrass and pound with a meat mallet until fibres are flattened and crushed. Cut spring onion into 1cm slices, crush and chop garlic finely.
Place fish, spring onion, lemongrass, chilli and garlic in a saucepan with the coconut milk and gently simmer for 10 to 15 minutes until cooked. Add lime leaves then fish sauce to taste.
Serve with steamed jasmine rice.
Barbecued Fish Wings
Its BBQ time and there's nothing more wonderful than simply cooking some lightly marinated fish wings on a flat top BBQ plate.
A decent-sized fish is required, one that has some meat on its wings.
Take a couple of wings (quite cheap at the fishmongers) and marinate in some oil, garlic, white wine, coriander, ginger and a dash of honey. Barbecue for a couple minutes either side.
The flesh becomes almost gelatinous and stays so moist
Barbecue Lore
Interestingly enough, when the Spaniards discovered Arawak Indians grilling food on racks over coals in the Caribbean, they borrowed their word for this primal cooking technique, translating it into the Spanish language as barbacoa - and barbecuing was born.
Barbecued Trout
(Serves 4)
Ingredients
Fresh lime slices
Fresh dill sprigs
4 trout, cleaned and scaled
dash olive oil
fresh squeezed lime juice
Method
Place 3 to 4 slices of lime and some dill sprigs in the cavity of each trout and season to taste. Brush trout with olive oil and season.
Cook on a medium hot BBQ grill, drizzling with lime juice.
This takes about 5 minutes on each side.
Tips For Barbecuing
For a crisp skin on fish, rub the surface with sea salt 1-2 hours prior to cooking
When making chunky fish kebabs, soak bamboo skewers overnight to prevent them from burning.
Use a hinged, wire grilling rack to cook whole fish over an open flame. To add aroma and flavour, toss onto the coals some herb sprigs such as rosemary and bay leaves.
Marinate baby octopus in verjuice, flat-leaf parsley, white wine and olive oil, then barbecue quickly until flesh is opaque (only a matter of seconds).
Stuff Freo sardines with a mixture of chopped tomatoes and parsley, add lime juice and sea salt, wrap in vine or banana leaves and grill for a few minutes
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